The diamond trade has always been shrouded in intrigue and allure. But with new lab-grown diamond options now available, discerning the differences between natural and synthetic diamonds becomes critical. This guide, together with our recorded session from the JDMIS Gem Jamming Session at the National Design Centre illuminates these interesting aspects of the diamond world.

The Centuries-Long Allure of Diamonds

For thousands of years across cultures, diamonds were associated with royalty, mystical powers, and prominence. Only elites could afford the extraordinarily rare crystals. 

This exclusivity was amplified in the 20th century through De Beers' wildly successful "A Diamond is Forever" marketing campaign. Launched in 1947, it cemented the tradition of diamond engagement rings, greatly expanding consumer demand.

Natural Diamond Mining - An Intricate Process 

Diamonds originate 90-120 miles beneath the Earth's surface, where heat and pressure crystallize carbon into diamond over billions of years. Powerful volcanic eruptions transported some diamonds closer to the surface over time.

Most diamonds today come from open-pit or underground mines. Open pit mines involve massive excavations up to 1000 feet deep and over 1 mile across. Underground tunnelling carefully extracts diamond ore.

Alluvial mining around rivers and marine mining along coasts and oceans also recover diamonds washed away from the volcanic pipes over millennia.

Diamonds in nature are a rarity and are not a renewable resource. Global diamond production has fallen from 178 million carats in 2000 to around 120 million carats today as mature mines close and discoveries dwindle. Over 90% of natural diamonds today come from Russia, Botswana, Democratic Republic of Congo and Canada. Industry expectations are that supplies will continue to slow, making natural diamonds, especially the larger, better quality ones, increasingly rare.

Lab-Created Diamond Production - Simulating Nature Above Ground

In contrast to underground origins, lab diamonds are produced in facilities simulating high pressure and heat conditions to create identical crystals above ground.

There are two main production methods:

• HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) which uses presses to mimic underground conditions. This approach requires high energy input.

• CVD (chemical vapor deposition) which relies on heating hydrocarbon gases alongside diamond seed plates to stimulate crystal growth. This is lower energy.

Lab diamonds can be ready for cutting and polishing within 2 weeks, rather than the billion-plus years for natural diamonds. China leads in synthetic diamond output, though only about ~1 million carats enters the gemstone market each year currently. The other 99% serves industrial roles.

Sustainability - Considering the Environmental Impact

In the past, traditional jewellers selling natural diamonds have argued against the sustainability claims of lab diamond producers, both because of the high amounts of energy used in production and the fact that mining activities, when conducted responsibly, support infrastructure and education in developing nations. 

Today however, with improvements in technology and more and cheaper renewable sources of electricity, lab diamonds can offer a much more compelling sustainability argument. However, well-regulated mining still provides essential economic benefits to communities.

Consumers should research ethical sourcing for themselves, as challenges persist in fully tracing some diamond origins and monitoring abuses as well as validating claims made by synthetic diamond producers about energy usage and sources. Purchasing from transparent suppliers enables aligning personal values.

Investment Value - Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural diamonds better retain value over time and have an established resale market. This contrasts with synthetic diamonds which depreciate rapidly from retail price and have negligible resale value.

For example, a 1 carat natural diamond might retail for $10,000 while an identical lab diamond sells for around $2,600 - a 75% discount. This divergence between natural and synthetic is even more dramatic with larger, better quality and therefore more rare diamonds. As improving production technology points to continued decline in lab diamond prices, there is no logical justification today for considering a created diamond as an ‘investment’ or even a reasonable store of value.

Affordable Alternatives - Diamond Simulants

For budget-driven buyers, diamond simulants like cubic zirconia and moissanite allow getting the diamond look at a fraction of the cost. These materials have even lower production energy requirements that created diamonds and provide interesting options for certain budget and environment conscious buyers to consider.

Watch the entire Gem Jamming Session

JDMIS director Alex Zupancich goes into more detail on each of these topics in the Gem Jamming session on Natural vs Synthetic Diamonds conducted at JDMIS in the National Design Centre. The full recording of his session may be found below.

More about JDMIS

The Jewellery Design & Managment International School (JDMIS) is the leading specialised Jewellery School in Singapore and Asia. Founded in 2007, JDMIS has grown into an established regional training brand, delivering exceptional jewellery education to over 20,000 individuals from over 56 different countries and training the best local and international brands.

Step into the vibrant realm of gemstones, where nature's artistry meets human craftsmanship. This guide unravels the complex tapestry of gemmology, shedding light on the beautiful mysteries that lie beneath the surface of your favourite jewels. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a novice gem enthusiast, understanding these fundamentals is essential to appreciate the true value of these precious stones.

What is a gem?

The world of gemstones offers such an endless choice of colour and variety of fascinating minerals that they can satisfy even the most difficult of people to please. The history of gemstones goes back for centuries since they were prized long before the diamond was discovered. Many prospectors in the past have risked their lives to find them and still today, although mining conditions in some areas have improved, people continue to put their lives at risk in the search for the most beautiful, naturally created, specimens from earth.

A Mineral is defined as:

A solid crystalline chemical element or compound that results from the inorganic process of nature and that has a characteristic crystal structure and chemical composition or range of compositions.

Within the mineral kingdom the most common characteristics of gemstones are: chemical composition and crystal structure, the combination of which, together with physical and optical properties, are most important in their identification. All minerals that have identical chemical composition (or range of compositions) and identical crystal structure are of the same Species.

There are more than 3500 known species to date and this number is increasing at each year but only a very small proportion of these minerals have the attributes which qualify them as gemstones: Beauty, Durability and Rarity!

For example, Quartz has the chemical composition of SiO2 (known as silica) and a hexagonal crystal structure. It is one of the most common minerals. It is part of many common rocks including granite, but also forms in varieties classified as gems:

Variety Amethyst:	blueish-Purple to Purple to reddish-Purple.
Variety Citrine	Yellow to Orange to brownish-Orange

Just some quartz varieties: Rock-crystal, Tiger’s eye, Aventurine, Citrine, Smokey, amethyst!

Corundum is another well-known species with many varieties including sapphire & ruby, but different varieties of corundum have dramatically different prices! The key factors that affect a gems value are: Colour, Clarity, Carat Weight and Cut

Colour

In Corundum for example, the Sapphire variety comes in a rainbow of colours ranging from Pinks, Oranges, Yellows, Purples, Greens and even Golden colour.

Ruby, on the other hand, is Red. Ruby is far rarer that other colours of corundum and therefore far more valuable. In the past, pink was thought to be light red and many pink gems were called Ruby (and priced as such!)  Padparadscha is the only other variety name given to one of the rarest of the corundum family, it is a blend of Pink and Orange which is quite unique and valuable.

With colour having such an effect on value, since the beginning of the twentieth century gemmologists have created clear means of assessing colour and now prefer to avoid confusion in value and rarity, for example calling Pink corundum, Pink sapphire instead of ruby!

Gemmologists don’t just talk about colour, but break down this important factor into four elements:

• Hue: The predominant colour (wavelength)
• Tone: The shade of colour (light to dark)
• Saturation: The intensity or vividness of colour
• Evenness of colour: The absence of colour zoning

 Let’s take the Blue Sapphire as an example.

There are differences in opinion as to what is the ‘Best’ Blue. Some prefer just Blue while others will insist that a slightly violets-Blue is a superior colour. However, most people in the industry agree that greenish-Blue sapphires are definitely less valuable.  You should always keep in mind that personal preference is most important.  When buying any gems remember you will be the one to see it, wear it and enjoy it every day.

The next is tone, how light or dark the colour appears.  In some gems the tone can influence the variety name and therefore raise cause to command a distinctly different price! The light tone changes the classification of the stone to Pink sapphire – from the more valuable Ruby, whose tone must be medium to dark.

Where tone is ‘light to dark’, saturation refers to the intensity of the colour, or vividness.  A gem with weak saturation appears washed out whereas the more saturated the colour the more vivid, vibrant & expensive!

Finally, evenness of colour is another feature to look for especially in Rubies and Sapphires as many are prone to exhibit colour zoning - Lighter and darker bands of colour running through the gem.  Many gems exhibit colour zoning which if easily noticeable will lower the value.

Sapphires which are not such good Hue, very dark, not vivid and with colour zoning are plentiful in the marketplace today! Just because it is a sapphire does NOT mean it is rare or expensive!  You can use your understanding of colour, and the terms used by gemmologists to better negotiate your next purchase since gemstone sellers will treat you differently if they know you understand the factors that affect a gems value!

Clarity

Clarity refers to the number and type of internal and external characteristics in a gemstone: Internal Characteristics are called ‘Inclusions’ (NOT imperfections!) and External Characteristics are called ‘Blemishes’. These characteristics affect the value of the stone but are not always bad! In many cases they allow gemmologists to identify genuine gems and even establish whether they were formed naturally!

There are many different clarity grading systems worldwide by many different agencies. One of the most popular is the Gemmological Institute of America that breaks down gemstones into 3 clarity categories:

Type 1	Type 2	Type 3
Normally clean to the naked eye. Few Characteristics under 10x magnification	Few characteristics visible to the naked eye. Clearly visible under 10x magnification	Many clear characteristics visible to the naked eye. Clearly visible under 10x magnification
Eg: Aquamarine, Topaz	Eg: Ruby, Sapphire	Eg: Emerald, Rubellite

While clarity is important in all gems, this factor has less weight than colour and especially for the type 2 and type 3 stones. It is only in colourless gems like Diamond that clarity becomes especially important.

Carat Weight

The carat is a standard measure of weight in gems. The term Carat originated from the carob seed, used since the earliest gem dealings.

The metric system standards for carat weight
were developed in 1913 and equate 1 carat to 0.2 grams. They also divide 1 carat into 100 points.

As gems increase in carat weight the price per carat increases dramatically up to a certain size. Once a gemstone becomes unwearable due to its size – the price per carat tends to drop.  This means a one 1ct stone will be much more valuable than two 50-point stones. 

Cut

For most gems in the market, cutting is still done by hand! India (Gujarat and Surat) and Thailand (Chanthaburi) are some of the largest cutting centres for gemstones where skilled craftspeople apply each facet one-at-a-time to create the gems we buy today.

Common shapes for different gems are usually determined by how to retain the greatest weight from the rough
crystal; for example, in diamonds, this would be the round shape, in ruby it would be the oval.

For unusual rough however, cutters have invented many beautiful cutting styles and with modern technologies, some gems can even be cut into unusual customized shapes!

The Proportions in cutting gems refer to how deep or shallow the gem is and whether the table and culet or keel line are on or off centre.  These measurements are very important!

Stones which are very deep will be difficult to set or look smaller than they should.  Often, they will look dark and have reduced brilliance.
A gem which is too shallow might have a large area where the stone becomes ‘see-through’ called a window.  Major symmetry problems are not attractive and when easily noticed reduce value substantially. 

Gem Simulants

A gemstone Simulant can be described as any material which resembles another, (usually more popular) gemstone, in appearance.

Imitations have existed since the earliest of times and before a system to scientifically classify different types of species was devised most green gems were called Emerald and red gems were called Ruby. These Imitations were either natural gems of a similar colour or glass.

Synthetic gemstones can also be imitations (e.g. Colourless synthetic Spinel or synthetic Rutile are Imitations of Diamond.) Assembled stones and even Plastic can imitate a variety of other well-known Natural gemstones.

While there are some simple ways to gauge the authenticity of some simulants, often, identifying a simulant requires equipment, practice and experience. As a lay person, you might look for ‘clues’ that don’t fit the quality of the gem you are buying – for example, if you are buying an expensive diamond, yet when you look at the cutting of the gem, it appears poorly cut, or with rounded or scuffed facets, then you might want to do some more investigating before you make a purchase decision!

Experts will examine closely the characteristics of the gemstone: By examining measurable properties like refractive index, refraction, specific gravity, etc, they will conclude about the material they are testing. Most natural gems also have difficult-to-reproduce characteristics that indicate their natural formation.These gems also do not contain gas bubbles – a common give-away in simulants made from glass.

Assembled Gems

Beyond simple substitution, another of the common imitation gems are the assembled stones sometimes referred to as Composite stones of which there are two main types: Doublets and Triplets.

Doublet is a combination of two materials - typically a gem quality material on the top and an inferior material below.

Triplet refers to the use of coloured cement or third coloured layer in-between typically colourless upper & lower portions.

There is no doubt by the way they are cunningly created that the purpose behind most assembled stones (unlike many other Imitations) is to deceive the gem buyer.

Doublets may be reliably detected by immersion in a liquid with an index of refraction like that of the gem fragments; the layer of cement will appear as a dark line. Jewellers will typically use a 3.32 specific gravity liquid (Methylene Iodide) due to its refractive index. But there is no easy way for the lay person to spot these!

Synthetic Gems

A Synthetic Gemstone has essentiality the same chemical composition, crystal structure and consequently the same physical and optical properties as the natural gem it represents with the difference that it is made by Man in a laboratory and not by Nature.

Synthetic gems are most often used for legitimate purposes – ranging from watch components to lower-cost jewellery and it is rare that they are substituted for natural gems.

When they are, however, this poses a serious concern to the jewellery industry and gem-buying public since, having the same chemical composition and crystal structure, these gems have the same characteristics and attributes as their natural counterparts and are very difficult to detect!

Recently however, detection technology is improving, and most international gem labs can spot tell-tale signs of synthetic gems when these gems are sent for identification or grading.

Some jewellery firms even use synthetic gemstones to their marketing benefit – presenting them as ‘cultured gems’ and offering them at a substantial price reduction over their natural counterparts for the price conscious buyer.

As we conclude our exploration of gemmology fundamentals, we hope you now feel more enlightened and confident as a gem buyer. The knowledge of what truly makes a gemstone valuable - its colour, clarity, carat weight, and cut - is your strongest asset when navigating the gem market. With this newfound understanding, may every piece you choose not only sparkle with aesthetic beauty but also resonate with the rich stories of nature and craftsmanship that each gem carries within. But why stop here? With JDMIS' GT100 - Gem and Jewellery Trade Secrets Certification course, you can delve even deeper. Discover the industry's best-kept secrets, learn from renowned experts, and transform your passion into expertise. Don't miss this golden opportunity to elevate your understanding of gemstones and jewellery to professional heights. Visit the GT100 course page and take your first step towards becoming a certified gem connoisseur today!

Isn't it fascinating how coloured gemstones like spinels, peridots, and tourmalines are sparking so much interest across the globe in recent years? Diamonds may have had a long reign as a girl’s best friend, but these vibrant and unique gems are now stealing the limelight! The shift in gemstone preference isn't just happening with royal brides like Meghan Markle, but is also evident on the shelves of iconic jewellery houses like Tiffany & Co. and Cartier.

Why this sudden fascination, you ask? A variety of reasons come into play. Firstly, the traditional "Big Four" — white diamonds, red rubies, blue sapphires, and green emeralds — are spiralling in price. As these classic beauties become more unattainable to the general public, other coloured gemstones provide an affordable yet equally beautiful solution.

Secondly, who can resist the stunning spectrum of colours offered by these gems? From the romantic hues of pink morganite to the soothing tones of lilac kunzite and mint tourmalines, there's a colour for every mood, occasion, and individual. Unlike diamonds where the cut is king, coloured gemstones are all about their captivating colour. But when evaluating their value, it’s still important not to neglect the rest of the four C's — cut, clarity, and carat weight.

Investing in coloured gemstones, however, requires caution. Experts advise that it can be a risky business due to the lack of industry-standard pricing and the potential for fraud. While some gemstones have seen their market values rise significantly, it is essential to remember that each stone's value depends on various factors. Therefore, it is crucial to approach gemstone purchases with a focus on appreciation for their beauty, the sentimental value they hold, and the joy they bring, rather than viewing them purely as investment opportunities.

Curious to learn more? I have shared my thoughts on this topic in a detailed article on Channel News Asia. Feel free to explore further here!

Wouldn't it be great if the sparkle from new jewellery remained forever? But unfortunately, it doesn't take long for the shine to fade. Exposure to things like chemicals, dirt, and the lotions we apply on our skin can clog and dull our jewellery.

Your jewellery collection should and could look its best all the time! Whether they are pieces we wear on a regular basis, or ones we keep in our jewellery box, we probably all have jewellery pieces that are long due for a good cleaning. Professional cleaning is an option, but I will show you an easier, low-cost method to clean your jewellery at home. And, you're likely to already have the supplies you need for this project at home!

From necklaces to rings, diamonds to coloured gemstones, gold to silver, this guide will take you through the process of cleaning different types of jewellery, so they can regain their sparkle and shine!

*IMPORTANT: The instructions in this guide are NOT for pearls strung on silk which have their own special process that requires restringing.

Preparation:

Before you begin with the cleaning, it's essential to prepare some basic supplies that you most likely already have at home. You'll need:

• A bowl with a small amount of clean water
• Mild hand wash or dishwashing liquid (preferably one that is gentle on your skin)
• A soft toothbrush (e.g. baby's toothbrush)
• Paper towels or a clean cloth to keep everything dry


Assessing Your Jewellery:

Take a moment to carefully examine each piece before you start cleaning. If your jewellery is purely metal, there should not be any issues with cleaning them. However, if your jewellery pieces contain gemstones, it is crucial to check that all the gems are properly set and none are loose in their settings. Gently check the gemstones for any movement or signs of looseness.

The Cleaning Process:

Now that you have checked that your jewellery is suitable for cleaning, we can begin the process:

1. Apply a small amount of soap on the soft toothbrush. You do notrequire a large amount of soap; a tiny bit will suffice. You can always add more later if needed.
2. Dip your jewellery piece into the bowl of water to wet it.
3. Gently rub the surface of the jewellery with the toothbrush, paying close attention to every nook and cranny. Be meticulous in your cleaning, making sure to reach between beads and turn the piece over so that you clean both the front and back. Take your time to cover every square millimeter of the jewellery piece - Go over the entire surface at least once, or even twice if necessary.

4. Rinsing and Drying: After each round of cleaning with soap, rinse your jewellery pieces in the bowl of water. If possible, rinse the jewellery under running water as this is generally more effective than rinsing using the water in the bowl. (Note: Even when rinsing over running water, keeping the bowl under your jewellery prevents tiny components from getting washed down the sink.)

   Soap residue can act as a magnet for dirt, so thorough rinsing is crucial to remove any remaining soap. Clean the brush thoroughly to wash all the soap from it. Use the brush to clean between beads or into intricate details, ensuring every bit of soap is removed.

   After your jewellery pieces have been properly rinsed, place them onto a clean cloth or paper towels to dry fully. Now, take a moment to admire your cleaned jewellery pieces. Notice how beautifully the gold shines without any dirty brown areas caught in the grooves, and how the silver astounds you with its renewed lustre. The gemstones, whether diamonds or coloured stones, will regain their brilliance, making your jewellery look almost new.

Notes On Cleaning Different Types of Jewellery:


1. Metal Jewellery: Jewellery pieces that are fully metal (without gemstones) in gold or brass are relatively easy to clean. You can rub quite firmly against the metal surface with the soft toothbrush without causing damage. Clean the front, back, and sides of the piece thoroughly, especially textured areas where dirt tends to accumulate, and then rinse.
2. Gemstone Pieces: When dealing with jewellery adorned with gemstones, it is important to exercise caution. While brushing, be gentle to avoid any damage to the stones or the settings. You may notice a greyish or brownish residue coming off during the cleaning process, which indicates you’re removing dirt from the jewellery effectively. However, in the process of cleaning gems can become loose in their settings, so use your fingers to check for any movement of the gems after rinsing.
3. Silver Jewellery: Silver tends to tarnish over time, but this can be easily remedied. Rub the piece with the soft toothbrush, making sure to reach all the nooks and crannies on the jewellery. Pay special attention to the inside of rings, especially the area behind the stones, as cleaning this area can significantly enhance the sparkle of your diamonds and gemstones. If you have a pearl-adorned piece, handle it with extra care and gently go over the surface to avoid any damage.


The cleaning process sounds simple, doesn’t it? Not only is it fuss-free, but it also gives you the satisfaction of restoring shine and breathing new life into your favourite jewellery pieces. If you're passionate about gems and jewellery, or curious about the gemstones on the jewellery you own, then the GT100 – Gemmology and Trade Secrets course may be just the thing for you! This comprehensive course will provide you with in-depth knowledge about gemstones, their characteristics, and secrets of the trade that will help in your next gem purchase. It's the perfect opportunity to enhance your understanding and appreciation of these precious stones.

For those who are eager to take their love for jewellery to the next level, why not explore the world of jewellery making? At JDMIS, we offer a range of jewellery making courses that will unleash your creativity and allow you to craft beautiful pieces of your own. From designing to fabrication, you'll learn the art and techniques behind creating unique and personalized jewellery.

Tanja M. Sadow G.J.G.
Dean and founder of the Jewellery Design and Management International School